By Kira Salak
"The Koogka and Opoka are at war with each other,"
the driver, Willy, wants me to know. He leans casually against the dented
white van, the pmv, which is the only form of ground transportation in
Papua New Guinea. "They leave each other's hands and feet on the side of
the road."
It occurs to me that Willy waits, smirking, because he's expecting me to
show surprise or disgust-to show something-and not want to make the trip
to Mt. Hagen after all. I lean down to adjust a strap on my backpack. If
there's violence, better I don't know about it. Better not to know anything.
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