The next day we visit a village that is celebrating the rains. Men and
women parade around a pole, stagger, sleep on the ground. Children squat
to pee on the grass. Angel takes me over to an old woman sitting cross-legged
in a corner. He scoops up some lumpy, white, yeasty liquid from a pot near
her and offers it to me to drink. “Masata,” Angel says, “from manioc.”
Women chew the roots for days and spit them into the clay pots, he explains.
The saliva enzymes ferment the liquid. I grimace. It is the first time
I hear Angel laugh.
We take a long boat ride and hike to see the Yagua Indians. The elders
don the traditional grass skirts for visitors, sell amulets and bowls and
belts. Children swarm around a tourist who hands out rubber bands. Tiny
hands pull at the bag and yellow, red, green, and blue rubber bands spray
all over the ground. The children scramble like pigeons in a park. I search
my pack for something to offer. Cough drops and a Wash ‘n Dry are all I
have. Someone gives them gum and they throw the wrappers on the ground.
The ladies in the group cluck, and instruct the children to pick up the
papers. Roldan talks with the Indians, jokes around with a blow gun. I
look for Angel. He is leaning against a tree on the edge of the opening,
watching.
“It’s a shame,” one woman says about him. “He’s an intelligent man.”
“So good looking too,” another says. Even the older, married women with
their retired doctor and businessman husbands fantasize. One woman is paying
Angel an extra $20 to take her to hunt for tarantulas. The other women
ask to come, and Angel leads five of us into the jungle. He stops, tells
us to cut our lights, be still.
“Listen,” he says. We stand in complete blackness. He scans his flashlight
across the path, finds a hole in the ground and shoves a stick into it.
A tarantula comes crawling out, furry and fat, like a pet.
“Touch it,” he says, but we are afraid of its bite.
For the remaining nights Angel and I meet. On the last night, sheets of
rain pour down on the palm thatch roof over our heads like bullets. I feel
warm air from his nose on my throat. Outside the rain stops, and the insects
and owls and night creatures call with urgency.
At the airport, Angel hugs me. I leave him my money, my flashlight, my
day pack, not much, but things he can use. I put my address and phone number
in the pack. On the plane I stare out the window, the sharp peaks of the
Andes like knives that could cut into the silver belly of our plane. I
dream that I return home pregnant, don’t tell anyone, just let the life
grow inside me, and then push and pull into this world a half-wild child.
Tiny, brown, a swimmer, a small fish in a wide river, a dolphin child,
a piranha like his father.
Maureen Stanton lives in Sanford, Maine. Her essays have appeared
in Creative Nonfiction and The Sun. She has published a series
of humor columns in Comic Relief and Funny Times, and is
currently working on a collection of essays and a novel.
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